Crispy Tadyang ng Baka (Twice-Cooked Beef Ribs)

Method

1. Ask for short-rib pieces roughly 6–8 cm long rather than very thin flanken slices. Remove any loose bone fragments with a damp paper towel. Put ribs, water, onion, garlic, bay, peppercorns, soy sauce and sugar in a heavy pot. The liquid should nearly cover the meat.
2. Bring slowly to a boil, skim the foam, then lower to a barely bubbling simmer. Cover partly and cook for 2 1/2–3 1/2 hours, turning occasionally. Add boiling water as needed to keep the ribs mostly submerged. Fast boiling can shred the meat before connective tissue softens.
3. Test the thickest piece with a skewer: it should enter easily while the meat still holds its shape on the bone. Lift the ribs gently and drain. Taste a cooled piece of meat and add the optional salt only if needed. Strain and refrigerate the broth separately for another meal.
4. Arrange ribs in one layer in a shallow container. Let steam escape briefly, then refrigerate within 2 hours. Chill at least 4 hours, preferably overnight, with space around the pieces; once cold, loosely cover. Blot all surfaces extremely well before frying. Wet braised ribs spit dangerously.
5. Use a deep heavy pot with oil about 4 cm deep and no more than half full. Heat to 175°C. Lower one or two dry ribs in carefully with long tongs and use a splatter screen, not a tight lid. Keep children and water away from the stove.
6. Fry for about 4–6 minutes per batch, turning carefully, until browned and crisp. Since the meat was chilled, check its centre reaches 74°C for reheating. If the crust darkens too soon, finish on a rack in a 160°C oven rather than burning it in the oil.
7. Drain on a rack for 2 minutes and serve with the vinegar and rice. Do not cover hot fried ribs tightly, which softens the crust. Refrigerate any leftovers promptly and use within 3 days; reheat once in the oven to 74°C. The texture is best on the first frying.