Kabocha Salad

Method

1. Use a stable board and a sharp knife to cut the firm squash; remove seeds and peel carefully. Weigh 800 g prepared flesh, not an 800 g whole squash. Cut similar-size pieces for even cooking.
2. Steam over simmering water for 15–20 minutes until a fork goes through without resistance but the pieces are not collapsing into water. Keep the pan from boiling dry and test several pieces.
3. Spread cooked squash on a shallow tray, allow heavy steam to escape for 10 minutes and refrigerate promptly. Do not leave a deep covered bowl cooling for hours. It should be cold before mayonnaise is added.
4. Meanwhile grate carrot, slice spring onions and check raisins for stems. Mix mayonnaise with lemon juice, salt and pepper in a separate small bowl. Start conservatively with salt because mayonnaise varies.
5. Roughly mash the cold squash with a fork, leaving plenty of small chunks. Fold in carrot, spring onions and raisins. Avoid using a blender, which turns this into a puree rather than a salad.
6. Fold in the dressing until just coated and chill for about 30 minutes. Taste cold and adjust seasoning. If the squash has released liquid, drain it before adding more mayonnaise; extra dressing does not solve watery squash.
7. Top with toasted walnuts immediately before serving, or omit nuts for diners with an allergy. Keep the salad refrigerated until needed and return unused portions promptly. Serve small amounts alongside savoury grilled or fried food.