Latik (Toasted Coconut Curds)

Method

1. For fresh coconut, work the grated mature coconut with the warm water for 2 minutes, then squeeze firmly through cheesecloth; strain the extracted milk again. For the canned option, whisk the coconut cream until completely smooth.
2. Pour the chosen coconut liquid into a wide heavy pan no more than half full. Bring it to a steady simmer over medium heat, uncovered.
3. Cook for 15–25 minutes, stirring every few minutes while the water evaporates. As the cream becomes thick and porridge-like, lower the heat to medium-low and scrape the sides back into the pan.
4. Continue stirring as small beads of clear coconut oil appear and the thick cream breaks into curds. Once fat is separating, do not add water because it can spit violently.
5. Turn the heat to low and stir almost continuously for 5–10 minutes. Break up large clumps and cook until the curds are evenly pale golden and smell deeply toasted.
6. Remove the pan one shade before the colour you want because the hot oil keeps browning the solids. Immediately pour through a fine heatproof sieve set over a heatproof bowl.
7. Spread the curds on parchment or absorbent paper and cool them in a single layer; cool the strained coconut oil separately. The latik becomes crisper as it loses its residual heat.
8. Scatter the unsweetened curds over kakanin just before serving. Refrigerate cooled curds and oil in separate clean airtight containers, and re-crisp soft curds briefly in a dry pan over low heat.