Mapo Tofu

Method

1. Choose soft tofu that holds cubes, not a tub intended only as a pourable dessert. Slide cubes into gently simmering water for 2 minutes to warm, then lift with a slotted spoon and drain. Do not shake a sieve full of fragile hot tofu.
2. Set out doubanjiang and chopped douchi separately. These fermented seasonings supply much of the salt and flavour; plain tomato chilli sauce is not an equivalent replacement. Prepare the starch slurry and keep it ready.
3. Heat neutral oil in a wok over medium heat and cook pork mince for 5–6 minutes, breaking into small crumbs until it reaches 71°C. Let a little fat render for flavour rather than leaving a large layer of grease.
4. Push meat aside briefly, add doubanjiang and stir into the oil for 30 seconds. Add douchi, garlic and ginger and cook another 30–45 seconds, avoiding burnt chilli paste. Pour in stock or water and add sugar.
5. Bring to a gentle simmer and slide in warmed tofu. Spoon sauce over it and simmer for 4–5 minutes. Move the wok or push with the back of a spoon rather than vigorously stirring and breaking all the cubes.
6. Taste the sauce and add the optional soy only if needed. Stir the slurry and drizzle it around the bubbling edge, using enough for a loose coating. Add optional ground Sichuan pepper, spring onions and sesame oil and fold very gently.
7. Serve immediately with rice made separately. Warn diners that tofu retains heat in its centre. Refrigerate leftovers in shallow containers and reheat gently but thoroughly to 74°C; do not keep a warm wok standing out for several hours.