Tuyo Pasta (Garlic-Oil Pasta with Filipino Dried Fish)

Method

1. Use tuyo that has been cooked according to its packet instructions, or a commercially prepared ready-to-eat version. Flake carefully and check twice for bones; weigh the edible flesh, not whole fish. Taste a small piece to assess saltiness before seasoning the pasta water.
2. Bring the measured water to a boil, salt lightly and cook pasta until just short of the packet’s al dente time. Reserve at least 250 ml pasta water before draining. Do not rinse the pasta because its surface starch helps combine the oil and water.
3. While the pasta cooks, put oil and sliced garlic in a wide pan over medium-low heat. Cook gently for 2–3 minutes until fragrant and pale gold. Add optional chilli flakes for the final 20 seconds, taking care not to burn the garlic.
4. Add the tomatoes and cook for 3–4 minutes, just until their skins wrinkle and juices begin to appear. Fold in the tuyo flakes and warm for 1 minute. Avoid a long fry that dries the fish into hard salty pieces.
5. Add drained pasta and about 100 ml reserved pasta water. Toss over medium heat for 1–2 minutes until the liquid and oil form a light coating. Add more water a spoonful at a time if the pasta looks dry; it should not sit in an oily puddle.
6. Remove from heat and add calamansi juice and parsley or spring onion. Taste before adding any more salt: the fish normally supplies enough. Serve immediately while the sauce is fluid and the pasta still has a slight bite.
7. Refrigerate leftovers within 2 hours and use within 2 days. Reheat a portion once with a splash of water until steaming throughout. Do not save a jar of the fresh garlic-fish oil at room temperature for later cooking.